J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Non- Skid additives for deck paint

I need to repaint my deck and I am wondering what non-skid additve to use. last time I used a polymeric non-skid and have not been too happy with it. I would like a more aggresive non-skid on my deck - especially when healed over and trying to winch in a genoa. Does anyone have any recommendations on non-skid additives?

I painted the deck on Blitz last spring and had very good results with the West Marine Non Skid product (Grey). I have a pretty aggresive tread feel and have had no issues with slipping in fairly wet/heavy air conditions. It took very little prep (80 grit light sand for adhesion) and went on well with no peeling or lift off.

Did you sand off the remnants of the old non-skid pattern from the gel-coat...or did you just apply the new paint directly over the prepped surface?

[This message has been edited by jmruzzi (edited 02-12-2007).]

I painted right over the prepped surface.

Awlgrip's non-skid additive is excellent - I prefer the coarse stuff. We brushed a deck using awlgrip and it looks better than our friend's professionally sprayed non-skid. Its also very easy and cheap to do a 'perfect' job.

1) Prep deck. We knocked down the old molded pattern and it looks very slick.

2) Paint deck with awlgrip high build primer (roller and brush work fine). Cure, sand lightly. This will give you a very flat surface.

3) Paint a coat of your deck color (again role and brush. Let dry, but re-coat before cure.

4) Paint another coat of your deck color, while its wet, knock a bunch of holes in the top of the paint can that the non-skid additive comes in (it becomes a big salt-shaker). Sprinkle the decks liberally. This additive is relatively cheap, so really cover it. Let this coat dry, not not cure. The additive will stick in the wet paint.

5) Gently brush and vacuum the excess non-skid. Only walk on it in socks so you don't scuff off the grit. Roll 2-3 more coats of deck color over the non-skid. The more coats you add the more durable it becomes, but your loose more of the aggressiveness of the grit. We did 2 coats and its been super tough and very very grippy. I'd do three next time, or at least assess at 2.

The key here is once you start laying on coats of the deck color, you must re-coat within 24 hours (check time and temp with instructions) so it doesn't cure. Its epoxy based, so once it cures you have to sand and clean if you want to recoat. Since we're talking non-skid here, sanding is not and option. Also, don't be tempted to apply heavy coats of awlgrip. This paint flows beautifully and makes the brush marks disappear. Because its flows readily, a heavy coat will sag. I'm typically a fan of spraying, but rolling and brushing works great on decks and shortens your cleanup time dramatically.

Also, don't use crushed walnuts or sand (popular answer to this question). I've heard of some folks doing this... A purpose made additive is cheap, inert and works great.

I used the Awlgrip and have had good luck iwht it as well. I ignored the old nonskid pattern and wrapped it about an inch down past the cabintop and cockpit seat radii and it gives us great grip without sliding on the corners.

We also painted the toe rails white and put non-skid right up along the inside of the toe rail. This makes for a nice grippy toe rail to brace against, but by keeping the grip off the top of the rail it doesn't eat up the backs of your foul weather pants when you're hiking. And its one less bit of teak to maintain.