J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Teresa from SA

Inquiting minds want to know ... did she get a test sail yesterday and is she gonna be lookin to buy a J 30 even after the test sail ?

Thor

No test sail, Weather in CT. was beastly, but in spite of the rain, she got to crawl all over both a original layout, and a new layout boat. We also wandered over to B dock, and put a spike in the idea of a J/29. (Amazing how cramped a J/29 looks after spending half an hour in J/30) I extended an invite to try again next Wedndesday, and she may well go up to Boston this Sunday to look at a boat that's for sail. (And I gather she may well have local help to look over the boat)

The CPYC gang certainly did a nice job in selling the boat. We had four seperate owners all explaining why they love their J/30.

Now if we can only get the weather to behave on Wednesday nights. We've lost 5 out of 8 Wed. night starts to either no wind, or howling line squalls, or both in alternation.
Last night, we had 30+ knot gusts across the clubhouse, and blinding rain, with a tornado warning, followed by zero wind and steady rain. Sigh.

- David

Jeez David-you should bring the fleet down here. Last night was our first cancelled Wed. race in two years!

This year has been truely cursed, in terms of weather. We normally lose one or two a season to the doldrums. We've had those, but also several line squalls run through the sound, timed perfectly to be a problem on a Wed. nights.

cool with Theresa .... for the folks who dont already know, we got a good write up on the front page of Sailing Anarchy ....

thats how we roll ..... :-)

Thor...

weather was PERFECT all year long and I mean from middle april to last weekend.... This weekend we have our club distance race and I am sure we will have NO wind whatsoever, just a lot of heat and japanese beetles swarming down on you ....
wish me luck

She is coming up this Sunday to look at a boat in Sictuate. She is really ready to go. You guys did some nice work on her yesterday.

I was hoping to go look at the boat with her but I am doing an overnight race to Province Town - the tip of Cape Cod - and will not be back until Sunday night.

Our Wed night got rained out also - again. Like David we are 5 for 9 here in Marblehead for Wed beer can racing.


David
#397

[This message has been edited by dbows (edited 07-13-2006).]

Well, many thanks to the CPYC J/30 Community, and the greater fleet (Dave Bows, in Marblehead, take a, well, bow), Teresa has an accepted, contingent (on survey, and engine running once launched) offer in, on #526. The boat should be headed for Horseshoe Harbor, in Larchmont.

For another slice across the process, take a peek at http://www.sailinganarchy.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38222

Which, if you've never tripped over Sailing Anarchy, may be err.. quite the eye opener.

- David


[This message has been edited by dwl (edited 07-17-2006).]

OK, so what am I David, chopped liver? (I'd love to see that three page list!)

You're part of the greater fleet, I'd hope. It was a definite team effort.

The three page list? Here's the bulk of it edited out of a longer e-mail...

Yes, you want paper. A simple paragraph or two, making it contingent on survey,
and specifying how long you have to arrange the survey, and probably how they'll
delivery it. (ie. in the water or not. If not in the water, who's responsible for making
sure the engine ends up in good working order.) You may want to ask the deposit be
put in a seperate account, or escrow, and specify how quickly they have to return
it if the survey finds problems. You should discuss orally, what would be a deal breaker
in the survey. (Wet core in the hull, major keel/hull joint issues, major wet deck
issues, serious wet bulkhead issues come to mind.

You'll want whatever Massachusetts does for a bill of sail, probably notarized, and 2 copies.
If the boat is federally documented, you'll want the federal transfer papers for the documentation,
also notarized. (Essentially a federal bill of sail relating to the documentation)


I'd make a list of what's on the boat when you see it, and discuss whether it's all going to
handed over, or not. If not, get a list of what they're taking. (Had a buddy who went and
inspected and put a deposit on a boat, surveyed and bought it, and when he took delivery
they'd pulled out the top end electronics for their next boat and replaced it with absolute
bare bones equivalent. They could have gone and fought over it, but it wasn''t worth it, but
it is worth being aware that people can pull stuff like that.) It doesn't sound like this guy
is moving on to another boat, so may be less of an issue.

You want to look at all the bits, and see what shape they are in. Do all the blocks,
jib cars, and so on move freely? Do the lines look worn? Some of this is to know what
you'll need to replace, some is to get a hint as to how well they kept up the boat. If you
find enough stuff that's tired, you can gently use it in the discussion on price.

Spin all the winches., They shouldn't bind, they may be "thick" feeling, which just means
they need cleaning. They should turn freely in one direction, and not the other. Toss
a handle in 'em and make sure they turn smoothly, when spun by the handle. Check all the
little cam cleats (Most likely harkens) and see that they are intact, and move freely, no broken
plastic bits, no shot springs. (They're easy to replace, but 25-45 a pop, depending on size)

If there are batteries on board, check out the running lights, and cabin lights, and other electronics
If not, you may want to specify that they'll be checked once battereies are installed, and
who's responsible for sorting out any problems. Get a list of what electronics are included,
and whether they work.

Find out what they slip/mooring situation is at the yard where the boat is located, and who's
going to pay for it for how long, when it goes in the water. If you want to have time to shake down, and
sort out any problems, then you need the time (and slip/mooring) to do it from. If the bottom
needs painting, find out what the yard allows, (Some yards don't allow painting) and if you
want them do it, get a quote, and a timeline. Find out if leadtime on launching would be
an issue. Unlikely mid summer, but worth asking)

Lets see. Other things to check...
All the basic stuff (Is it on the boat, if not, do they have it?)
Main Salon Table
Stove (Even if dead, worth knowing)
Check the hatches, all three should open, stay propped, and latch down properly.
Check the opening ports they should open, and latch securely. (1 in the head, I think
one in the aft end of cabin, I believe)
Water pump for kitchen sink.
Anchor, chain, line (Anchor should be in the anchor well, starboard side, near the chainplates,
check to see that that well has good hinges, and drains properly.
Current safety gear (Flares, horn, flashlights, working running lights, fire extinguishers, radar reflectors, etc)
Plastic tubs for all the storage spaces under the bunks
Cushion set (Forepeak, 2 traingular ones) Half crescent filler, wood filler panel, 2 main salon seat cushions, 1 Quarter berth
cushion, cushions to make backs for the setees.)
Spin gear - Spin Pole, Sheets/Guys, Guy blocks and/or twings. Foreguy Spinnaker topping lift
Rig
Mast (Check condition, if the rig is down)
2 Jib Halyards
1 Center (Spin) Halyard)
Main Halyard
Topping lift
Windex (or similar wind indicator on top)
Mast head anchor light (May not be present, isn't on a lot of boats)
VHF Antenna.
If the rig is up, check the condition of the sheaves, by moving all the halayrds several feet up and down, they
should move freely, no binding, not too much unlubricated bearing noise
If the rig is down, examine the spreader attach points, looking for any pulling or distortion of the
metal at the rivets. (This is rare, but worth checking)
There should be a combo steaming light/Deck light fitting just below the spreaders, I believe, check that
it looks to be in good shape)

Boom
Outhaul (Should move fairly freely, under simulated load (Have one of you pull on each end)
There should be a boom vang, and cunningham. (Although not a big deal if no cunningham, many cruises never rig them)
Main sheet, traveller, check condition, make sure cleats, blocks are in decent shape
Check the backstay adjuster (Should be a cascade, led to a triangle where the backstay legs join, or similar.
There will likely be a swim ladder, port side, aft. Check it's condition.
Check the four pads of the bow pulpit for solid welds. Check the deck there for softness
Check each stanchion for solidity, and check the lifelines for fraying or rust as they pass through the stanchions
There should be a tiller, check it for being solid (It should be, but worth checking)
Check the rudder pivots for slop. (There will be some, it's inevitable, but it should be basically solid. Check the hull
structure around the two gudgeons (Where they attach to the hull.) Since the boat's on the hard, you may
want to tap the rudder. It should be dry and solid sounding, and slightly hollow. Look for any telltale signs
of water leaking at the very bottom.
Check both the head and engine seacocks. They should move easily, and through a full cycle from across to inline and back
Check the propeller, cutlass bearing (Where the prop shaft goes through the little fin) and make sure they look solid.
The propeller shaft shouldn't show any obvious bowing, and the prop shouldn't show more than moderate pitting.
There should be jib sheets and jib cars. Check the tracks. (There should be 2 sets, one along the cabin, on the side deck, one
up front, neae where the shrouds attach. Check that the cars fit, and that the tracks aren't distorted. (Very rare, but worth checking)
There should be a cockpit mounted bilge pump, check for it, and the handle.
There should be a fresh water tank, (under the port berth main cabin forward) a diesel tank (under the starboard main cabin berth
forward) Check thta both are secure, and not leaking.
There should be a holding tank forward, check that it's rigged, and there is a Y-valve.
If the boat is documented, find out where the documentation number is affixed.


For most of this, expect it to be working, if it isn't you want to discuss who's responsibility it is to sort out, and if you need to do it,
you may want to discuss lowering the price slightly for each item.

Well...so another one bites the dust. I bought mine without the benefit of these wise words...sight unseen, over the phone, in a foreign country. 12 years later I'm still happy (except that yanmar thing...) Had the pleasure of sailing with the 8 J30s out on a wonderful Weds nite at CPYC this week. Hope to get back on Sunday.