J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Best deck/rig layout?

Hey all,

I'm in the middle of completely redoing my deck as part of a major refit of my J/30. This presents an interesting opportunity since the deck will essentially be 'virgin' with literally every hole in the deck disked and filled, all bad core replaced and fresh awlgrip over everything. The existing layout seems reasonable, but I'm sure there are some innovative improvements that people have come up with that I'd love to tap into. Does anyone have any photos of really workable racing layouts that they can share?

Specifically, I'm interested in finding out if there are solutions to getting the halyards out of the cockpit and cleaning up the placement of the backstay (which leads to a cheek block and cleat forward of the traveler on my boat). My gut feeling is that there is too much rigging concentrated in the front of the cockpit - jib and spin sheets, halyards and controls from the stoppers on the cabin top, the backstay controls, traveler and mainsheet. These all wind up between the secondaries on the cabin top and the traveler bar!

Here are some of my thoughts, I'd love any comments anyone could offer.

Halyards:
I regularly race a J/24 and we do a couple of things that help the situation with halyards. Specifically, the jib and spin sheets cleat (cam cleats) on the mast so they can be jumped and cleated by the mastman. Plus, the entire length of the halyard can be dumped right at the mast with this setup. This doesn't preclude using the secondaries to add some tension, since the balance of the halyard still runs back to the stoppers. Does this work on the J/30, or are the loads too great to pull this off.

Backstay controls:
I'm thinking about moving these controls back from in front of the traveler to just aft of the traveler. My thinking here is that the backstay is the skipper's job and can litter the aft part of the cockpit with rope, instead of mixing with the various sheets coming off the primaries.

Alternatively, and more radically - I might look at rerouting the backstay down into the back of the cockpit (like the J/24). This puts the rope down and out of the way and routes everything along the floor instead of along the seat. Plus it keeps the cleats down in the cockpit and off the seatback. Thoughts? Am I a busting class rules with this one or what?

Traveler:
Windward sheeting car - this seems to be the standard move on these boats these days.

Also, if there is a ropes guide with recommended diameters and lengths somewhere, I'd appreciate a link to it.

Thanks!

Rich Miller
Tres Cosas
#294


[This message has been edited by 6degrees (edited 04-16-2006).]

Rich,

First, strange place for the backstay. Most have a purchase that ends at the stern above the instrument panel (typically starboard side), there probably is a pad-eye there. Mine runs through a block on the triangle and then runs down each side of the stern part of the cockpit to a cheek block then runs along the botton of the cockpit to another cheek block and then up to cam-cleats with fairleads on each side of the forward part of the cockpit. This allows either the main trimmer or the helmsman to reach the backstay on either tack.

I also have cam cleats on the mast for spinnaker, main and jib halyards. I have two sets for each but have never really felt the seconds were needed. This addition has been one of the best I have made. Layline carries a kit with a bracket and cam-cleat.

Sounds like you are on the right track. I also use the j/24 as a test pad for tricks.

David
#397

[This message has been edited by dbows (edited 04-16-2006).]

We've got our backstay twin tailed, with each tail led forward, comming out next to the traveller controls. This leaves it an easy grab for the driver, or if we have an active main trimmer, they can grab the leeward tail and play it.

- David

Glad to hear I'm on the right track and very glad to hear that J24-ish setups work well. My J24 friends are excited to race the J30 in some PHRF events this summer and similar rigging will make this an easy transition.

Thanks,

Rich
Tres Cosas
#294

Carefully read the rules before you start drilling on a clean deck. There is considerable value in remaining one-design even if you are a PHRF racer. Class rules (5.9) allow a certain amount of leeway with blocks and cleats. Cam cleats on the mast for topping lift and spin halyard (we use 2 cleats). Bow or mast handles both on spin set and douse. Double-ended 2:1 foreguy with cam cleats near the secondary winches for guy person to control. Add turning blocks at the stanchion base near the doghouse to keep the spinsheets out of the cockpit.

Upwind loads are significantly greater than on a J/24, so I would not think of cleating the main and jib halyards on the mast. Use a good set of rope clutches and consult the measurer before moving from their original location; I've never seen them anywhere else. Retain both triangle and wire split backstay; there has been a ruling on this. Run backstay controls along the crease in the seat and side deck, either near traveler or within reach of helm. Ours are on vertical walls of the foot well near the traveler and need to be moved since you can't reach the tail to trim or release while hiking (unlike the smaller J/24). Another alternative is to lead along the rail near the spinsheets just far enough forward for the helm to pull and release.

I would agree with Bob on the halyard loads. I use my cam cleats on the mast only for convinience of raising and lowering the sails. They both still lead through rope clutches.

David
#397

This sounds good to me. Being able to collect the halyard at the base of the mast prior to dousing the jib or spin definitely sounds a lot cleaner than running the entire length of the unloading halyard through the stopper. I'll definitely retain my stoppers for bearing the brunt of the load.

Thanks,

Rich