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Forums28
Topics4,054
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Most Online1,909 Jul 28th, 2026
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 |
When I bought hull #448 2 years ago, the surveyor mapped out a wet area in the hull on the starboard side, about 3 feet in front of the keel to about 3 feet behind the keel. Higher moisture readings near the keel and tapering off to dry about 3 feet away from the keel. Readings around the engine water intake and anchor drain not very high. There were a few small blisters in the area. A small core sample from the inside showed slight moisture and no indication of rot. Now that the season is winding down I am thinking about fixing this problem. I have searched the archives here and have read where a few folks have discussed this problem some, but am hoping to get some more up to date information. Questions; 1) Where is the water coming from? 2) What is the best process for drying?
AC
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164 |
my suggestion : first find any ways were the water could get in . like tha anchor locker, lifeline stanchions, etc etc
than dry the boat out over the winter and than repeat the moisture detection .... through various intenrnet accounts I have learned NOT to trust any surveyors .... Some of them have no idea how to work the moisture meter, and they fiddle as long as it takes, if they get a boat which is over 15 years old to find something..... after all the moisture meter has to pay for itself....
Yes I am a little critical about surveyoos, still need to have the pleasure to meet a good one yet.
Thor
Thor
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 |
Thanks for the reply, however I am looking for specifics on how the hull could become wet in the effected area and specifically what process to use to dry the hull. A local J30 had a relatively smaller wet area and had a yard drill a pattern of holes then allowed the boat to dry indoors for 3 or 4 months before patching and faring. I suppose that is one option however I still need to figure out where the water is coming from. (Osmosis, cooler drain, anchor locker? other ideas?)
AC
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 159
Western Great Lakes District Governor
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Western Great Lakes District Governor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 159 |
Step one is eliminate the water intrusion. The water was given a pathway in. Once inside the core, water travels to an equilibrium point, which may be far away from the point of entry (downhill eh). You gotta think it over, think uphill till you find it. First explore the usual suspects; thru hulls, exhaust tube, what else is ON the hull not the deck. The deck is an entirely separate piece and issue. Drilling holes sporadically does not work. Do not put any time or money into that. I spoke with three people this summer who are re-doing their boats this year, boats which were drilled in that manner. Peel the outer skin off the hull (there is a tool for this), suck it dry, leave a tarp up over the work area to "tent" it to prevent weather from getting in, but open at the bottom not trapping more moisture inside, let it air dry further after vacuuming water off the core, get it dry, for sure. Get to the exposed core, get it dry without question. Build it back with epoxy products.
Dell Todd #311 Temptation Holland MI
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 53
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 53 |
I had a wet core area too, port side about 5 feet long and two feet wide. I used a vacuum system. Delineate the wet spot, drill small holes in pattern. Cover the area with vacuum bag (sold by West Epoxy) and put a good quality vacuum pump on it for about 2 months. A buddy did the same with his J44 and it worked great. Dries it right out. Good luck!
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 |
Originally posted by Brad Stokes: ... I used a vacuum system. Delineate the wet spot, drill small holes in pattern. Cover the area with vacuum bag (sold by West Epoxy) and put a good quality vacuum pump on it for about 2 months... Thanks for the reply. I have heard of others using this system. A few questions; Did you drill the holes from the inside or outside? Was the boat indoors while drying or outside? How did you repair the holes? Do you know where I can get more information on this technique? Thanks, AC
AC
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 |
Has anyone tried using the "HotVac" system for drying a wet hull? I ran across the information using an ask.com search. The link is; http://www.hotvac.com/ A local yard here in the Portland Oregon area has one and claims it will dry a wet area on a hull or deck in 7 to 10 days. Just like the vacuum bag process except constant, even heat applied at about 100c.
AC
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Originally posted by alcal1750: When I bought hull #448 2 years ago, the surveyor mapped out a wet area in the hull on the starboard side, about 3 feet in front of the keel to about 3 feet behind the keel. Higher moisture readings near the keel and tapering off to dry about 3 feet away from the keel. Readings around the engine water intake and anchor drain not very high. There were a few small blisters in the area. A small core sample from the inside showed slight moisture and no indication of rot. Now that the season is winding down I am thinking about fixing this problem. I have searched the archives here and have read where a few folks have discussed this problem some, but am hoping to get some more up to date information. Questions; 1) Where is the water coming from? 2) What is the best process for drying? Try HotVac Hull Cure www.hotvac.com , the unique system uses heat and vacuum to vapourise acids and glycols that cause the osmotic problem in the first intstance...
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
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Posts: 111 |
AC
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