J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Rattle and Hum rebuild

http://sailrattleandhum.blogspot.com/

I just want to give thanks to Rattle and hum. Support him for his time sharing the process with the internet, and wish him luck. I've bookmarked the blog and i follow along. I have dreams of being able to do this to my boat in the near future. Yardspace in Hawaii is expensive and scarce.
Just a request. My boat would require similar repairs e.g. (softspots,gelcoat,epoxy-fill,new awl-grip,etc.)

If you don't mind me asking, how much $ are you anticipating spending on all the repair supplies(sanding, filling, painting, small hardware). Assuming i'm keeping all deckhardware and rigging.?

Much appreciated for the response. Keep the blog updated, there's people watching. Good luck with everything, sincerely, Rob Mango

Thanks Mango Madness!

I just updated the site; this week is going to be a big one. The boat has been placed in a shed where it will be primed and painted.

As for the estimated costs to restore this boat, I estimated about 4K with all the rot replaced, wood work redone, new cushions and new paint. Other than the labour nothing has been on the cheap side. I'm using the best products (in my opinion) I have used West Systems epoxy and am using Awlgrip for the paint, so far I'm on budget. I have spent about $800 on the glass work and have bought 2k in paint products (that's in Canadian). I probably bought way to much paint but I couldn't risk being short in the midst of the job.

All of this work is being completed by myself with the help of sailing friends. Even the spraying of paint will be completed by us....a group of amateurs. It's not for the faint of heart but with the right research and a lot of labour_and I mean a lot_anyone can do this.


All the best_by the way the blog has been updated today.

Jason Penney
Rattle and Hum,
Hull #124

It's good to see the results of all the work. I'm at the stage of discovering the core rot goes a lot farther than anticpated. I've repaired 60% of the transom but also discover that the water traveled to the bottom of the hull, which I knew about, but also in a section of the side. The whole edge of the transom side joint shows rot.
I'm curious are you planning on replacing your teak toe rails with anything other than teak?
John

Thought about it, the last boat I had I replaced the teak with black plastic. Worked well but my teak is still in great condition so I'll just refinish them.

This is a very inspiring story to tell. Thanks for sharing and love the color.

I want to paint a deck next year, so will follow your lead with the AwlGrip silica based anti-skid. It looks great in the photos.

[This message has been edited by David Erwin (edited 11-16-2007).]

Some bad news about my attempt at spraying Awlcraft 2000. But there is light at the end of the tunnel. Check out the blog for the latest Pics.

Thanks

Jason Penney

Jason, amazing work and documentation. Just wondering why paint hull first then deck second? Non skid looks really impressive, but wondering about the holes for deck fittings. Obviously winches and deck track can be reused, but rope clutches are notorious for having different hole patterns. Also did you rout out and epoxy the holes?

Why Paint the hull first and deck second? No real reason, but I had arranged to be in the garage for a week and wanted to make sure the hull was at least done during that time. This is the 2nd time I have ever sprayed paint...so lots opportunity to screw it up.

As for the holes, I am reusing all existing deck hardware.

I didn't route and epoxy any holes. If there was delamination, it was cut out and replaced. When I repaired an area that is going to require a hole drilled then the hole area with solid epoxy mixed with colidica silica rather than balsa. So when I redrill the hole no balsa is exposed.

All other holes, that didn't have wet balsa exposed when I removed the hardware, was left alone. I figue no damage after 30 years doesn't need any extra effort from me.

Any one have thoughts on this?

Jason

I would suggest reaming out the core and isolating it with thickened epoxy. The fact that no damage has occurred yet doesn't mean it won't. It is just a hole at this point and, as you rebed everything, are you really willing to risk MORE core damage after your extensive rebuild?

Remember, the core damage you've found thus far was due, in large part, to fairly shoddy construction technique. There's no good reason to make the same mistake and doing it right will only add a day to the project.

Anyone care to describe the technique of "reaming out the core". I've done it before with a bent nail in a drill and just pulverized the balsa then injected thick epoxy into the hole with a medical syringe.

Is there another way?

Thanks
Jason