J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Rattle and Hum rebuild

Well, I simply drill out the hole oversized, fill it, tap it and install. However, a dremel tool has a variety of bits that will do the job.

I don't think a bent nail will be very effective against dry, solid core, though I've never tried it.

Actually the method that Jason describes with a bent nail is effective if there is wet core. I've seen this done with stainless brake cable on an electric drill too. It is flexible enough to bend and get in the core area, yet stiff enough to chip away at the balsa. The key is to get out any spongy balsa and reach dry core. An acetone soaked rag stuffed in there and moved around will help displace any water. If you reach solid balsa but it is wet, then you can use heat and vacuum to dry it out. The syringe and epoxy works for filling. I mix in filler like West Systems 403 Microfibers (white powder) to a mayonnaise consistency. Just remember that when you get too much epoxy and hardener in critical mass, you get a mini "nuclear reactor" that will generate lots of heat as it cures.

If the core is dry when you drill the 1st oversize hole, just do what Jason King describes above.

Here's a tip for those of you who have beige decks. The 403 that Bill suggests is great for strength and is the right compound for the job. However, if you add a small amount of the 410 fairing compound, it won't reduce the strength significantly, it will be easier to sand, and you'll get a much closer color match.

Jason,

could you let me know what kind of equipment you used for spraying the hull. I am looking into buying a compressor, but it seems like you need a pretty big one for a spray-job.
I also would like to know what kind of spraygun you used and what kind of tip to use for awlgrip paint.

thanks ,
your boat looks great..

Rent one...don't buy it. You can usually rent an electric that will have the capacity to spray for about $30 bucks for a couple of days. Rent at the same place you would rent any contractors equipment.

As for a spray gun...I go the cheap route and buy a $100 dollar gun. Local autoparts store will sell them.

Hello Everyone,

It's been a cold couple of months in Nova Scotia so not much work is getting done on Rattle and Hum. I do have a propane space heater and in the coming weeks I'll begin putting the finishing touches on the hull liner.

Work like this doesn't happen without a lot of help from crew, family and friends. With that said, I would like to say thanks to my Father for his impeccable wood working skills. Check out the blog and take a gander at the beautiful wood work. All the work I put into this boat and everyone is going to be focused on the woodwork_sigh!


Jason Penney
Rattle and Hum #124 http://sailrattleandhum.blogspot.com/

I have been following your blog and what you have done is awesome! The woodwork may get the oohs and ahhs, but those of us reading your blog know just how much you love your boat. Great job and thanks for sharing....I am getting some ideas for my old girl after reading about your progress.

HHSA
Velocity Girl #278

Please forgive if I asked this question already in the past, but I am about to repaint my deck after sailing the factory non-skid off with 60 grit. Any tips and what anti skid did you use? It looks awesome? Did you spray the anti-skid?

By the way, I am oversize drilling all holes for the hardware and filling with west system epoxy. While painting the deck and all the hardwar removed, this is a great time and it will keep the boat dry.

Thanks,
Dave

Below is what I posted a while back in another thread:

Because I'm rebuilding the entire deck I won't be trying to reproduce the factory non-skid. I had great success with the process I used on the last boat and intend to use it again.
Quick overview of the steps:
1) Using a quality paint scrapper, scrap off the non-skid.
2) Sanded down the "smooth surfaces" with a board sander at 80 grit.
3) Sand down the "non-skid" surface with 80 grit.
4) Spray Awlgrip 545 primer to appropriate coverage thinkness (after deck has been properly cleaned).
5) Sand down the primed surface at 220 grit.
6) Spray Awlgrip on "smooth surfaces".
7) Tape off/cover "smooth surfaces".
8) Mix awlgrip (as directed) with flattening agent, then mix in Colloidal Silica until the paint is as thick as peanut butter.
9) Spread the mixture onto the non-skid area and roll it with a medium nap roller.
10) Let dry and remove the tape.

That's it and (in my opinion) you will get a beautiful, long lasting result. It will look like the non-skid on C&Cs as well the non-skid used on J120s.

There are more details on how to use awlgrip at: http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip_pages/application_guide_above_water.htm

A website on how to create the non-skid that I have described: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/20/Fiberglass_deck.html

Thanks

Thanks!