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#6235 11/07/00 06:36 PM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 104
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 104
Anybody have any good techniques for removing seized stainless screws from an aluminum mast? My spin pole car is really stiff. I'd like to replace it but I can't get the cap screws off either end of the track. I've tried various penetrating lubricants as well as using a big screwdriver and a wrench for leverage. I've also beat on them with a hammer in hopes of breaking them loose. No luck so far.

Any help is appreciated.

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#6236 11/08/00 09:50 AM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 173
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 173
First, I would try an impact screwdriver. It looks like a solid bar of steel with a fitting for screwdriver blades or sockets. The mechanism is internally geared so that when you hit the end with a hammer, it rotates the blade. Auto parts stores usually have them in stock ... they're used a lot on motorcycles. Another idea would be to try some heat ... very, VERY carefully. Aluminim has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than steel. Be careful so that you don't harm the paint, or the temper of the aluminum.

#6237 11/08/00 12:05 PM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 124
dwl Offline
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 124
With penetrants, the rule of thumb I've found
essential is, if you have the time, take your time. A shot of stuff, several times, each time you're at the boat, over the course of weeks, often will work, even tho it seems hopeless at firt. This requires that you not strip or mangle the fastners, needless to say, and as always, your milage may varry.

If that fails, and you go the impact driver route, you want to make sure you have a very snug fit between your bit/socket and the cap screw in question. While an impact driver can do wonders, it can also shred a nut or bolt
in amazingly little time. (He says, recalling the single slam it took to turn a ten year old hex nut on a NY-36 into a perfectly smooth, nicely rounded bit of stainless. (We ended up drilling that sucker out, eating four drill bits and several hours in the process)

- David Levine

#6238 11/09/00 11:17 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 14
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 14
Try a product called "Corrosion X" that's good for the galvanic interaction between aluminum and 316 stainless. when you put them back use a product called "Tufgel". it will act as a barrier and prevent the galling galvanic problem so you can get them out again if you need. those products will work anywhere the situation exists.
Charlie Cox

#6239 11/10/00 02:05 PM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 104
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 104
Thanks for the suggestions. I have been able to locate Corrosion-X but not TefGel (not TufGel). Any idea where I might find TefGel?


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