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R II #7836 09/09/09 08:59 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 26
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 26
My tank had one baffle in it,but it only blocked about 30% of the tank, the rest could be wiped. As I said, the removal and sloshing worked very well at getting the crud behind the baffle. It took numerous iterations to get the sloshing and wiping to come clean, but eventually the area behind the baffle was pretty clean. Removing the tank is key to this method.

I also used a vacuum pump to draw several gallons of diesel through the tank pickup. Even after all of this, that pipe had considerable crud in it. Once it ran clean, I was confident that I had bought a number of years of trouble free operation.

4-6 hours total time for the following:
- Remove tank and lines
- Clean tank with sloshing
- Mount tank straps to secure tank
- Replace all fuel lines
- Replace tank vent line
- Clean main separator/filter
- Clean small filter
- Draw fresh diesel through pickup line until clean
- Bleed and test (started right up!)

A fairly small investment in time for a very thorough cleaning.

Rich

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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
R
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R Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Originally Posted by Bob Rutsch
You may need a hammer and screwdriver to open the inspection plate the first time. After that reseal only hand tight and you won't need one again.

My inspection plate appears to be sealed with a tar-like substance. What did you use to reseal yours?


AC
R II #9176 03/30/10 10:44 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684
Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684
Likes: 1
On Rhapsody the plate at the top of the fuel tank has a rubber like gasket and appears to be custom cut by a previous owner.

R II #12724 12/13/11 11:37 AM
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
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Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
I was mistaken about the baffle on 9/3/09; there is one in our 1984 model fuel tank about 1/3 from the front.

Unfortunately we ran the fuel tank dry during our Fall Series. This resulted in intermittent fuel starvation the rest of the season. After refill and bleed, the engine would run for 3-4 minutes or longer then then conk out. If you pressed the drain valve on the bottom of the Racor filter there was a sucking sound indicating a block back toward the tank.

Engine ran fine on clean fuel in a portable tank for the trip to winter storage. After pumping out the main fuel tank I blew compressed air from a portable pump from the engine side of the hose back into the tank.

Fuel pickup tube appears to have been getting clogged on a hard white sludge with some bits about the size of a quarter, probably a fuel bug. We regularly use Biorbor JF Diesel Microbiocide and Sta-Bil over the winter though typically not added at the same time.

Cleaned what I could reach with Acetone, but there's no way to get past the baffle. Will see if this was enough in the spring.

By the way, there is a fuel shut off valve near the top of the tank that I never noticed before. It's hidden under the lip of the settee.

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684
Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684
Likes: 1
Bob - That fuel shutoff is per AYBC standards.

Instead of acetone, try pumping good fuel back into the tank using a small pump. Disconnect the hose from the engine side and connect it to the small pump discharge. Then pump about a gallon of clean fuel to get the sludge out of the pickup tube. Once that is done, use a flexible hose and small pump to get as much stuff out of the tank from the inspection port. Mark Rotsky on Nemesis gave me this tip.

R II #12726 12/13/11 03:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 83
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 83
Bob,

You could add an inspection port on the other side of the baffel. I did this to repair my tank by the pickup (cheeper than a new tank).


John
Madcap 358
R II #12729 12/13/11 06:42 PM
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Senior Member
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
When I first started my rehab of Conundrum last Spring, the fuel had not moved for 5 years. So I pumped out the remaining fuel and cleaned out the entire system with kerosene. This was recommended as a nonreactive solvent to the diesel fuel. Inside the tank I accessed the inspection hole and using a new toilet brush and rags, and kerosene, I cleaned and cleaned. I used a large syringe to backflush the lines from injectors all the way back to the tank taking apart each section that I could. I replaced both the yanmar filter and the racor filter elements. I pumped out all the excess kerosene and wiped everything I could completely dry. I reached as far back behind the baffle which sits approx 1/4 way back into the tank with a coat hanger and a rag SECURED to it. My results were quite satisfactory.

[Linked Image]


I filled the tank with fresh diesel added a bit of Biocide and I bled the system while hand cranking the engine. I then started the season with the first turn of the key (Push of the button)and she has started and run perfectly ever since.

Last edited by Conundrum; 12/13/11 06:48 PM.

Don King
R II #12730 12/14/11 11:50 AM
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
Governor at Large
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Posts: 679
Wow Conundrum, that's clean! I had acetone on hand and figured it would evaporate. Based on the suggestions, come spring it will be a kerosene wash, then a couple gallons of diesel pumped through the whole system. Rinse and repeat.

Cutting a second inspection port is probably beyond my tool or skill set and I don't want to pull the tank if I don't have to.

R II #12731 12/14/11 12:02 PM
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Good plan. Acetone is hard on the rubber, not to mention the lungs and skin. Absorption is a leading means of poisoning. Wear gloves too.


Don King
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