J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment windward traveler

I'm installing a harken windward sheeting traveler with a continuous loop and would like to know what the optimal length for the control line is?

Our traveler line is an old Spectra halyard, 27 feet each side, with the tail dead ended to an eye just beyond the end of the traveler. That's long enough to have the mainsheet trimmer fully hiked near the winch control it with car all the way to leeward. Too long except when you really need it. I've considered clipping the tail to the toe rail or even the lifelines but worry it might foul the spin sheets.

It is enticing to use a continuous control line but don't be surprised if you cut it later. The loop adds friction when you have to pull extra line up the leeward side and it is more likely to foul or get stepped on when you need it. If you like to handle your own traveler you might be able to go much shorter and keep the line from dangling on the cockpit floor.

I agree with Bob. We have a continuous line on "Mmmmm" and it ends up with a pile of extra line on the cockpit floor. I'm not sure I would do it this way again. It's more important to have the mainsheet trimmer release the windward sheet as you go through your tack than to have a continuous line. If I didn't hate to cut line, I probably would have cut ours and ridded ourself of all the extra line on the floor. Instead, we tuck it into a bag on the cockpit bulkhead and go on our merry way. The length of line will depend on the purchases you put on the traveler blocks. We have the Harken arrangement with double blocks on each end of the traveller. The line then goes to a turning block mounted vertically and the side of the cockpit which in turn leads to a clamcleat above it, thus allowing the trimmer to pull upward to cleat the line. I was told that the Harken windward sheeting cars had some problems with them so we went with this arrangement instead of the car with the cleats installed.

I could post some pixs if that would give you additional ideas.

Bob Rude
Mmmmm
#352

I didn't get the car with the cleats on it, I bought the 4:1 set up with the double blocks so I can have the camcleats on the side of the cockpit. Pictures would be great if you wouldn't mind.

Patrick - although not the windward sheeting version, this may be representative on routing the traveler lines as a continuous loop. It is from this old thread that has a description.

Patrick if you are going to the trouble of replacing the track and car, go with windward sheeting. In addition to being very handy when you tack, there is much less line involved since the cam cleat is within an inch of the final turning block on the car. You will find 4:1 with a windward sheeting car as easy to work as 6:1 in the original setup.

Patrick:

Our system looks very much like the photo that Bill posted. We have the 4:1 arrangement. Our system is 100% Harken. I took a piece of thick white plastic and cut it to fit the indentation of the traveller bed. I then used SS washers to shim up the track so that it was level across the entire width. There is a slight bow to the molded deck indentation. The raised traveller allows water and dirt to drain out and permits easy movement of the car.

Our backstay adjustment control lines don't run to the floor, however. We run them up the sides of the combings so the end up next to the traveller lines. This way, we have the controls centralized and you don't have to lean down into the cockpit to work the backstay. In puffy conditions we're working the backstay constantly.

Hope this helps.

Bob Rude

Patrick:

A few photos of our system.

Bob Rude