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#13347 04/02/12 03:53 PM
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
I thought it might be helpful to others to create a thread for sourcing the miscellaneous parts that are not typically found in your local chandlery.

Drilled head bolts, used with safety wire to hold the prop shaft in place. From you guessed it drilledheadbolts.com, SDH62J1 DH SS Hex Bolt 7/16"-14 X 1" length was the correct one for my original transmission with a 1" shaft. Don't ask how we lost one of these bolts (it's probably in the hidden bilge) or what happens when you do.

[Linked Image]

Rig-Rite Gooseneck Toggle Tack Assembly with Reef Hooks for 3/8" Vertical Pin: K-10345A (search down the page) & Clevis Pin: K-CP6-76 3/8" diameter with 2 3/8" grip length. Thirty years and several times on the vise with a hammer meant that the holes for mainsail tack fast-pin wouldn't line up anymore and the pin kept popping out. After all those stories about delays from Rig-Rite this arrived within two days of my phone order, though I probably could've bought the clevis pin cheaper locally.

This part fits between the inboard end of the boom and the mast fitting like this:
[Linked Image]


Spring pin for the hinge of the standard small hatch (Bomar/Gray/Pompanette 900 series) under the boom or over the head. From McMaster-Carr 92373A189 18-8 Stainless Steel Slotted Spring Pin 1/8" Diameter, 1-3/4" Length bag of of 50. If you fail to dog the hatch and catch a sheet or halyard on it it usually just breaks the hatch cover. Luckily this time it was just the pin. I didn't need 50 but they were $5.25 each from Pompette. PM me if you need one. I had to drill out the old pin and worried about breaking hatch when I hammered the new one into place, but it worked out OK.

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J30 Gooseneck K-43006A.gif (16.49 KB, 690 downloads)

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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
Senior Member
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
So ok ... today working on a "extension of life" program for a J24 named BANG! note I didn't say rehab.

All the winches were locked up. They used this spring clip on the left ... except for one that used this substitute on the right.

I have no idea of how to size them ... but are also what we use on some of the J30 Barients.

Anyway I got a same new replacement for the ring on the right which appears to have lasted 7-10 years ... for 15 cents.

but if i could find a cheap exact replacement for the coil ring or if someone knows the size we use, I would appreciate that.

I'm thinking the black one was what we used to call jetalized. [Linked Image]
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Retainer Ring.jpg (37.71 KB, 608 downloads)
winch retainer rings

Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Circlips apparently also called Spiral Retaining Rings.

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
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Thanks Bob ...
And as your reward ... what happens to #10 SS bolts used years ago to anchor stanchions in a J24

they are still non magnetic, and the one with the head popped off looked good enough to reuse but was rotted in the core ... duh...
[Linked Image]

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Vic - Stainless does not mean it won't rust. You are seeing evidence of a possible combination of:
1. Substandard quality steel (e.g. maybe cheap Chinese knock-off without quality control for the alloying process)
2. Stainless immersed in water with no oxygen

Stainless works if there is a source of Oxygen, e.g. areas that get wet and dry or are permanently dry. Otherwise you get accelerated crevice corrosion because there is no oxygen source to continue to build the passivation layer.

With the wet core, the ss bolt was in constant contact with a source that had no oxygen, hence the result you see in the picture. More reasons to make sure all holes are epoxy isolated!

That is a reason that Monel and Marine Bronze is better suited for use below the waterline.

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Anyone know where I can get the rubber piece that keeps the rain water out of the manual bilge pump? I emailed Whale, but got no reply.

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
one model of rebuild kit

unfortunately a lot of the boats over the years end up with different pumps installed ... but link is a possible lead if you can find out which gusher you have ... and as I remember they don't mark the old ones with model number. duh.

I just put in new side mount from WM.

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
Member
Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
Jeff,

Are you refering to the re-build kit Vic referenced or the gasket that keeps water from getting through the deck? I recently replaced the latter with Whale's Deckplate / Pump Gaiter Kit. It is available through Defender.


Tom Heinrich
Hullabaloo #443
Hullabaloo - J/30 Hull #443
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
Senior Member
Senior Member
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Posts: 1,234
hey I recognize that ... you have to replace that every 25 years. or get a new pump. depends on what else is not working at the time.
v

Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Defender and Jamestown Distributors are both dependable sources if you are nearby. I'm not so I saved a bit recently replacing a cracked diaphragm plate (WHA-AS0561) for our manual bilge pump (an original Whale Henderson Mk 5) using JMS Online. Your part, same source: Whale Deckplate Gaiter Kit WHA-AS3725.

Replacing the trim ring several years ago, the mounting holes didn't line up so I had to drill and chamfer new ones.


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