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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 95
G
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Thanks Bill, you've got everything right!
I will check with the measurer.
Cheers


-- Georges
Foot Loose #467 - CPYC - Winthrop
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J30.us
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I like the idea of using a ball bearing design.

Joined: Apr 2003
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Georges - Welcome to the district - are you planning on joining us in Marblehead for some OD racing?



David Bows
Mallorca - Hull# 397
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
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So I found the spec for my Main Sheave that I replaced the old one with - It is from Rig Rite and it is a:

- J24 Main Halyard Sheave - Lightweight Plastic 3/8 ID - K-11881 ($19)
- Main Halyard Bushing (Bronze) 3/8 OD x 1/4 ID - K-9523 ($3)

Works very well.

Last edited by dbows; 10/16/09 09:23 AM.

David Bows
Mallorca - Hull# 397
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
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OK ... for an update on original post:

1. diagnostic approach.
a. how do you break free a sheave that is stuck with wire halyard? --- run out enough halyard so that the rope part goes through the sheave and tug each way real hard with the rope in the sheave. The wire alone just saws though the sheave. That idea came from my 72 year old sailing buddy here. and it did break free the sheave.

b. How do you tell the sheave is working? does it screach or not? we all know that!

c. how do you tell the AL sheave is shot --- saw dust flakes of aluminum are at the shackle end last 3 ft of the wire. My observation today.

d. how do you temp fix this in a backwater non sailing oriented environment like Naples? kiss off the wire halyard with 100 feet of whatever cheap 3/8 line you can find ... in this case Sampson XLS from a final bankrupcy sail last year at Boat World at 80% off ... only problem is now my spin and main halyards are the same blue line.

e. How do you tell the "recommended" rigger may be a light weight when it comes to J30. Listen to his approach:
"I'll have to go up there and see what the problem is ... then I order the parts ... after they arrive then I go back up there to install them." with no idea of how long that would take.

He blew off a day "thinking about it" ... I had the answer in an hour from this thread and ordered the parts from RigRite for delivery next week. I won't bother changing it until I get to Marco mid Nov after the MIYC Fall Regatta and have it done at the boatyard there. That's the closest place we can haul a J30 out of Naples or get crane service. Even though two years ago when they commissioned Vee Jay they originally attached the harken roller furling to the back of the mast. duh...

Thanks to all
Vic
[Linked Image]

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8
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Another welcome to Georges in Belmont. We look forward to seeing you around. Winthrop is not that far from Salem Sound where we race. We would love to have another J/30 to spend some quality Saturday's with in the summer and hope you will join us for the North Americans next August. David (DBows) is the district governor, but feel free to contact any of us locals for whatever help we can give. We also race the beercan PHRF series Wednesday nights which is a lot of fun.


Justin Byrne
Mithril #495
Marblehead
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 156
J/30 Class Measurer
J/30 Class Measurer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 156
Georges
Ballbearing sheaves are approved for use.

Larry Christy
Charlie Stoddard
J30 Class measurers

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 148
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Can the one of the Jib sheaves be replaced or does the whole box need replaced. RIgrite only list the boxs

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 78
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Do you have a part # on the ball bearing sheave?

Stefan Jans
Pale Rider


Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
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Originally Posted by Phantom364
Can the one of the Jib sheaves be replaced or does the whole box need replaced. RIgrite only list the boxs


They can be replaced - I did it last year. I bought the replacement sheaves from RigRight - Part # SS Jib Box Sheave Replacement Kit: K-10658SK http://rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/4060-MORC.html

It is a bit a pain in the ass - you have to punch out the old pins and replace them with clevis pins that fit as tight as possible. Then you have to grind a bit of the mast opening away so you can get the box back in. It took me about 4 hrs to do it but it was worth it.

FYI - After doing it myself - you might want to see if you can find some ball bearing or nylon sheaves vs the Alum ones that are the replacement kit.


David Bows
Mallorca - Hull# 397
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